Brauhaus Schmitz
Center City finally has a German restaurant once again. Brauhaus Schmitz (718 South St.) is the new baby from Doug Hager and his wife, Kelly Schmitz-Hager. I stopped in yesterday for a bite and a gulp.
Two things to note right up front:
- There’s an informational picket line on the sidewalk, by the Metropolitan Regional Council of Carpenters. They say the owners used non-union labor. I confess I crossed the line - mainly because I have a job to do. I have mixed feelings on this because I’m a union member, but in this economy I want to see a new business succeed. Also, the pamphlet calls Dough and Kelly “rats,” which is just bullshit intimidation. In any case, I think I’m going to wait till it’s gone before I return. You make your own decision.
- On a more pleasant note, the waitresses are wearing dirndls. Of course, I support this as a matter of authenticity and not merely eye appeal.
As for the bar itself, it’s beautiful. Handsome oak details, old German touches, a wall full of old apothecary boxes, a giant plaque with the Reinheitsgebot in German.
The taps are well thought-out, a nice group that’s nearly equal to the now-closed Ludwig’s at its finest. Among the notables: Schneider Aventinus, Franziskaner Dunkelweisse, Schlenkerla Helles (!), Kostritzer, Uerige Sticke Alt, Bayerischer Berliner Weisse, Ayinger Brau-Weiss, Reissdorf Kölsch, plus a house beer from Stoudt’s. Can’t complain about that, though as I sat there I tried to think of an alternative to its doppelbock (Optimator, Salvator) selection. Is Weltenburger Asam available of draft?
Food-wise, you’ll find many classic German dishes. Potato pancakes and roll mops as appys; house-made knackwurst and other specialties from Rieker’s Meats; and, of course, schnitzel. And try a pretzel with spicy mustard; Doug says they get their characteristic hard crust by soaking them in food-grade lye.
Bottom line: Like all new joints, give the kitchen and staff a chance to get up to speed. Enjoy the superb beer (yes, you can buy a full liter), and thank god we’ve got an authentic German tavern back in our very German town!
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